Agility Training

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November, 2001 - Not Getting Q's

July 12, 2001 -New and Different Equipment

June 28, 2001 -Good Sportsmanship

June 18, 2001 - Focusing on the Weave Poles

June 6, 2001 - Pressure

May 30, 2001 - Soft Dogs, Driven Dogs

May 1, 2001 - Lines - Figuring Out Your Dog's Path

April 24, 2001 - Your Dog's Working Distance

April 17, 2001 - Giving Advice To Others

April 4, 2001 - Novice Exhibitors

March 27, 2001 - Too Much Information?!

March 13, 2001 - Forward Motion and Motivation

November, 2001

Not getting Q's

OK, so getting those Q rosettes is great... I agree!  But it's just as much, and many times more, fun, to just have a great day with your dog.

Many of us who have been agility for many years forget what it was like before agility, or BA for short.  Do you remember having money to spend, having your weekends free, sleeping in on weekends and then being lazy all day, and never doing anything special with your dog?  If you're like me, those memories have faded away long ago.  What they have been replaced with is the realization that your relationship with your dog has grown tremendously, you are both getting much-needed physical and mental exercise, and you have made some terrific agility friends.

Sometimes we starting getting qualifiers with our dogs, then get too hung up on what it takes to get that next Q, forgetting how much fun it can be to make progress on every run on our teamwork and relationship.  Success should be measured not only in purple, burgundy or green ribbons/rosettes, but more importantly in the feeling of accomplishment and learning that takes place during and immediately following every agility run.  So remember to find something good to focus on when analyzing every run, and always celebrate your accomplishments, no matter how small you might think they are today... the less you worry about Q's, the more likely they are to come to you and your partner!
   

July 12, 2001

New and Different Equipment
   
     Every piece of equipment, particularly the contact equipment, can look and feel different to your dog, especially if he is not experienced yet.  I was at a UKC agility trial recently, and their equipment is a lot different than even my experienced dogs were used to.  I had the chance to walk them over the equipment to familiarize them with the smaller/shorter contact equipment, which was invaluable.
     Familiarization isn't allowed much anymore -- AKC is the only organization, other then UKC, that allows it at all -- so it is up to you, the handler, to take a good look at the contacts during your walk through to make sure your dog won't be surprised the first time he gets on them during a run.  Tip the see-saw, put your weight on the dogwalk, and push the A-frame a little from side to side.  Know if the see-saw is light and will tip early, or you have to straighten your dog's approach to the dogwalk to avoid having it bounce from under him and perhaps causing him to jump off.
     Gamblers class, when offered first thing in the morning, is an excellent way to get the inexperienced dog used to new and different contact equipment.  If you do this, make sure you allow time in your course plan to do possible problem contacts at least twice, so that by the time you get to your standard run later in the day, your dog is confident on all contacts!

June 28, 2001

Good Sportsmanship
   
      Agility competitors are, as a whole, very good sports.  Most of us are more than willing to help out each other, which includes helping out with a tough handling choice, holding a dog while another runs, helping save space and set up tents for each other.  As a community dog agility folk are very lucky indeed!  In other competitive dog events, such as obedience and flyball, for example, it seems like the atmosphere is more cutthroat and more of a "winner-take-all" attitude is prevalent, as opposed to "one-for-all" found in agility.
     Please don't think I'm putting down either of these two example sports!  Even though I have witnessed some of the non-friendly nature of these events, I realize that one experience does not by any means speak typically of a community.  I do, however, know that dog agility is hands down the friendliest thing going, while at the same time allowing for an incredible amount of serious competition.
     So, it is everyone's responsibility to insure that agility maintains this reputation: if you've been competing for awhile, help out a first timer set her tent up; talk freely about course strategy (remember, as often as not you'll gain useful information as well as giving it out!); hold someone's dog if she's stressed and needs to walk a course NOW!; and keep a smile on your face at all times!!!

June 18, 2001

Focusing on the Weave Poles
   

     I have been working steadily on Buddy's weave poles for more than a year now.  In the past 3 months, they have gotten quite good.  For about the last 6 months, they have become his favorite obstacle, due to the fact that I have worked a few sets for his favorite toy, several times a day.  I have been pleased with the results, as he has become more and more consistent with all sorts of entries and distractions.
     This past weekend, the first time he performed the weave poles he popped out at #10 of a set of 12.  OK, no problem -- I put him back in at the beginning.  This time he did 1-3, took a longer stride and went to 5, as he continued weaving.  It was as if his stride length was messed up and his rhythm got messed up.  I thought perhaps the spacing on this particular set of weaves was different than what we regularly practiced on, and later on we were to do Gamblers in the other ring.  Perfect, we could see how he would do on the other set!  Alas, the problems were the same over there.  We tried various approach entries, angles, distances, but he kept either skipping a pole or missing the first 5-6 poles entirely.  Now I had no idea what was going on, but was starting to worry about the possibility of shutting him down.  So, for the rest of the weekend I only let him try 3 times before letting his error stand and continuing on course.
     On Sunday afternoon, while walking a Snooker course for him, I looked down at the weave poles, trying to discern what was different about them, if the spacing was unique, or what.  Suddenly it hit me -- the bases were white, and the poles were plain white!  Buddy had been taught to weave using a channel with a target on the ground past the last weave pole.  So, he always looked low and forward when he wove.  My guess is that he looks at the joint between the individual weave poles and the base as he weaves; therefore, the plain white weave poles coupled with the white base made it very hard for him to see where the next pole was.
     How to fix this problem?  Well, I took one of my bases and painted them white on Monday.  Of course, at home he has performed them beautifully, even though the poles are plain white and the bases now plain white as well.  We will have to wait and see what happens the next time he encounters all-white weave poles in competition.  I now, coincidently, teach weave poles with an Ally-Oop, a Gary Wilkes creation that is basically a yellow ball about 12" above a base -- this way the dogs can focus more straight forward instead of downward and forward as they learn to weave.  I had started using the Ally-Oop because some dogs had trouble seeing the target when I added a jump before and/or after the weave poles.  Now I'm going to use it for all students along with the target on the ground -- and I'm going to use it as well with Buddy to see if I can get his focus moved upward a bit.  To be continued...

June 6, 2001

Pressure
   
I think that we all feel pressure at some time or another in agility, whether it's desired or not.  Everyone deals with pressure differently in agility; this includes both the dogs and handlers!
     Some agility handlers thrive on pressure; Linda Mecklenberg, for example, does better when there's lots of pressure, because it helps her focus on the task at hand.  Personally, I have found that pressure makes me extremely nervous -- I'm as competitive as the next person.  But, when I get out there on the start line I take a few deep breaths, realize we're the same team we always are, and know that I've put tons of practice in to get to this point.  Then I relax as I look at the first jump and realize it's just my dog and me out there, doing what we love best and are good at.
     If things go wrong under pressure, and they very well may, you have to let it roll off your back and think about your teammate first.  Laugh if it helps, call your dog silly (I often say that when I'm momentarily frustrated, to avoid blaming my dog for something that was probably my fault anyway), then go back and continue from the spot where it went wrong, with a fresh slate and state of mind.  This game can be so mental; the key is to keep it fun and positive for your dog, and keep your mind focused on what you need to do to be successful as a team!
     I go to CATS in 2 days for the USDAA Regional Qualifier, one of only 5 in the country.  It promises to include lots of pressure, probably almost as much as at a national event, since teams will be trying to gain a spot in the finals at Del Mar.  I will do my best to heed my own advice, have fun with my teammate, and yet put our all into each performance so as to do the best we possibly can.

May 30 , 2001

Soft Dogs, Driven Dogs
      I discovered about three weeks ago that the above two things can indeed exist together.  It may seem like that's impossible to someone who hasn't personally dealt with the scenario, but I can attest to the fact that a driven dog, like a Border Collie or Aussie, can indeed be very soft as well.
     With a dog who seems to live for agility, for whom it is self-reinforcing, you wouldn't think you would have to worry about shutting him down.  For example, what do you do with a dog who enjoys going in a straight line, and gets far ahead of you in the blink of an eye?  It seems only natural to call the dog's name and say "Come!" loudly when you want to call him from the straight line to another obstacle path.  But, many herding and other driven dogs, no matter how driven to perform, also have an intense desire to please.  Therefore, when you sharply and/or loudly call such a dog off of a line he thought was correct, he can very easily start to worry about being correct, and may very well slow down or completely stop as he tried to figure out what you want him to do.
     Now, not all driven dogs will react like this to a "call-off".  But be on the lookout for the signs in any dog, no matter what breed or mix thereof; slowing down, stopping to look at you, walking away to sniff, leaving the ring, etc.  And if it happens to you, tone down your voice, keep it positive, give your dog more information so you won't need a call-off if at all possible, and heap on the praise at random intervals!
     (I wish to thank a person from the NoviceA yahoogroups list for a piece of insight that got me on the train of thought to write this tip.  Unfortunately, I can't find the e-mail message so forgot the person's name, but she made the statement that it's surprising how many driven dogs are actually quite soft, because they want to please their owners.  Thank you!)

May 1 , 2001

Lines -- Figuring Out Your Dog's Path
     V-Set are one of the latest trends in agility.  All the top competitors are talking about them, and teaching them.  What is a V-set?  It's a "kink" in your dog's path, to put a "V" in his  path.  It is done to change the angle of approach to an obstacle, usually to prevent the dog from looking at an off course obstacle that follows.  If the dog doesn't see the off course obstacle, he'll be less likely to take it!
     I love V-sets, because they are a great way to avoid the dreaded call off.  I am just getting comfortable using them, and have barely begun to utilize them at trials.  I feel that I have so many more options upon walking a course now, so many more ways to help my dog!  But beware - make sure you're at ease with the move, and your dog knows it as well, before attempting it at a trial.  You have to know that your dog will recognize your body signals to make it work!  If your dog blindly runs past you, looking at the next obstacle in front of him, your attempts to push him sideways before taking the jump will probably be useless.
     The first few times trying it, do it in slow motion, and with a treat in your hand -- let the dog eat the treat at the point you make the V, then when he's done eating send him to the obstacle at the new angle.  Continue to use the hand, but without a treat in it, and use your body as well to push him, then pivot him around the V.  You have to visualize where you want your dog to turn (it helps to actually draw a line on the ground; at least walk the dog's path first to know where you want your dog to go).  You will quickly get good at both performing this move, and knowing where to best use it on course!

April 24, 2001

Your Dog's Working Distance
     It seems so simple that it should come intuitively to handlers in agility - keep the distance away from your dog that is comfortable for him.  But in practice it isn't always so easy.
     For novice handlers, it can sometimes take awhile to figure out how to use your body to communicate effectively to your dog where you would like him to go.  You start a sequence, and you are, for example, 5 feet to the side of your dog.  Your dog performs a nice gentle loop of jumps to a dogwalk, and some speed is building.  Then after the dogwalk the sequence turns a bit to a smaller loop.  You turn, expecting your dog to turn with you at that same distance of 5 feet away from you as before.  But he instead runs wide around the jump, seemingly not seeing it at all and not paying attention to your body language.
     But usually that's not what happened at all.  In most dogs, when they build up speed, their "comfort zone", or working distance, grows larger.  In the example above, this dog now needs you to be 8 feet laterally away from him instead of the 5 feet he was comfortable with at the start of the sequence.
     So how do you plan for this?  You have to, first, know your dog and get a feel for how he turns at differing rates of speed.  This comes with practice -- try keeping your dog with you in your backyard, without obstacles, just by saying "Here" as you make various turns after some straightaway speed has built up (you have to be able to play "Ready-Set-Go" chase type games for this to work!).  Watch your dog and see how far you are from him and how it influences his turns.  Then, see how moving closer to your dog on turns pushes him away from you.  Then, when adding obstacles to this experiment you're doing, start to watch and feel for your dog's change in speed, and realize that you'll have to put more distance between yourself and your dog as his speed increases.  It's as simple as that!  Now go play with this in your backyard :-)

April 17, 2001

Giving Advice to others
   I have to tell you -- I'm having so much fun right now!  I was recently invited to be the guest speaker on the NoviceA e-mail list, a part of Yahoo Groups, and I readily agreed to the task, knowing it would be a great way to get my name out there and promote myself to a bigger audience.  The likes of Bud Houston, Angelica Steinker, Marq Cheek, and Elise Paffrath (a good friend of mine) have all been guest speakers in the past.  So, feeling quite in the shadows of the greats, I started my two week stint yesterday.
     I've already answered quite a few questions, and it has stimulated my mind to delve into strangers problems with their dogs and give them advice they can use to help improve the agility team.  It feels really good to be able to help people new to the sport, giving them positive approaches to training their dogs, and hopefully playing a part in molding great agility dogs!  I have learned so much from training, instructing, attending countless seminars, and trialing both my own and other people's dogs, that it seems perfectly fitting for me to help others that are where I was four or five years ago.  Back then, there was no NoviceA agility list, and the AgileDogs and other lists were in their infancy.
     If you long-time agility competitors out there can possibly do so, on topics you feel confident speaking about, help novice competitors and beginner students by giving them advice.  You'll feel great, and they will be indebted to you.  After all, I'm sure you all got advice from seasoned competitors when you were just starting out, and really appreciated it at the time! 

April 4, 2001

Novice exhibitors
   OK, we were all Novice at one time (and some of us still are).  I just got back from a 4 day AKC trial in Syracuse.  Now, before some of you stone me for going to an AKC trial, Dee Bramble was in charge of the workers and played a big part in the trial, and that's the only reason I attended.  As many of you know, I generally don't attend AKC trials because I feel it's unfair to my two older dogs -- until last year, I didn't have any dogs that were allowed to compete in AKC.
   Sorry about going off topic there...
   I watched a lot of runs, both Novice and Open, over the 4 days this past weekend.  The one thing that I kept noticing, again and again, was how some people just are simply not in touch with their dogs and don't understand how important teamwork is when they go into the ring.
   A lot of what makes a good agility team is the ability to flow together as one around a course.  Guy Blancke, an internationally known competitor, was there for this trial, and his main motto rings so true here; feel the course, be as one with your dog.  I would say that most novice exhibitors do not have this skill yet (and it is a skill, it doesn't come naturally for most teams).  It is something that teams learn through time and patience.
   But a very many handlers don't seem to have that patience, at least from what I saw last weekend.  Something would go wrong on course, whether it be the handler turning too early and pulling the dog off an obstacle, or the dog getting distracted by something and not listing to his handler.  Then the handler, upon experiencing one of these situations, would invariably blame the dog, either by storming off the course and not saying anything to the dog, or chastising the dog in some form and continuing on the course.  If I were the dog in these situations, I would be turned off of agility rather quickly!
   So many novice handlers simply don't understand how wonderful it is just to be in the ring with their dogs, and don't have the patience to relax and take what comes, trusting that someday the moves will come naturally and those precious Q rosettes will come.
   I hate to say this (OK, maybe I don't...), but I think this happens more in AKC than in other venues.  There seems to be more importance placed on qualifying at AKC trials, as well as more peer pressure, perhaps (you know, your breeder/etc is watching, you'd better do good with that dog that comes from such and such lines).
   I could go on and on here, because I think this is a topic that needs to be discussed more, but I'll end this column by telling you that I didn't fall into the trap I described above; Buddy did get lots of Q's last weekend (5/8 overall), but the most important thing to remember is that I never left the ring with anything but pride and praise for his performance.

March 27, 2001

Too much information?!
   I just got back from Clean Run camp in Virginia.  There was such a wealth of information available (and freely given out) in the course of the four days that it boggled the mind!  How do you come back from such an experience, or any seminar, for that matter, and best make use of the new information you've gathered?
   The most important thing to remember is not to go overboard with your new training plans.  By all means, make the most of the new ideas you've gained, but before going whole hog and throwing all sorts of new things at your dog, or abandoning all old training methods, think a little about it
   -- Write down the five things you learned that you found most useful for your and your dog, or most want to start using.
   -- For each of these five things, determine how you will go about fitting them into your established training plan.
   -- If you decide to replace an old training method with a new one, determine if you'll have to "go back to basics" with your dog to ensure success with the new method, until he/she catches on to what you're doing.  (For example, if you want to retrain the weave poles using the clicker, you'll have to start your dog with 2 poles, and not expect them to master the 6 overnight just because they were doing 6 poles before with the old method.)
   Remember not to overwhelm your dog with your new plan, and not to overtrain.  It's a common desire for us to want to leap right in and start retraining the dog, or immediately incorporate every new idea we liked into our current plan.  But if you make a plan for bringing these new techniques into your day to day training session, little by little and one concept at a time, you and your dog will get the most out of your new training philosophies!
   NOTE: I used the quantity of five new things for no special reason; perhaps you picked up more, or perhaps less, new ideas you'd like to use.  Five is not a magic number here!  If you come up with one new idea, it may just be the one that makes your dog into a National champion :-)

March 13, 2001

Forward motion and motivation.
   It's too bad we can't read dogs' minds.  Often we assume dogs are "slacking off", or "blowing us off", when really they're just reading our body language, picking up subtle hints we aren't even aware we're sending, and obeying what we don't realize we're telling them!
    Just this past week in class, one of my students was having a problem getting her dog over a jump in a sequence.  In the past, this dog had needed extra effort to get into the game, and we have incorporated several methods to improve this dogs' motivation, with success.  But now, this dog was running around a particular jump, which she used to do when she got bored and didn't want to play the game anymore.
   I thought she needed a different form of motivation, since it was getting near the end of class, but we only achieved moderate success.  Then I watched the handler more closely on the next repetition, and suddenly realized the problem.  The handler was slowing down slightly near the jump, since a 180 degree turn came next, and the dog obeyed her body motion, thinking she didn't want her to take the jump!
   As soon as I got the handler moving a few steps past the jump before turning, the dog took the jump happily and confidently.
   You can never say it enough; 99% of the time the dog is right and the handler makes the mistakes!  In this case, the dog was right again :-)

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